So many socks and sweaters

My little ornaments are getting popular! Several people on Ravelry have posted projects. Wild Tomato made a bunch and had the funniest blog post about them. And yesterday I made it onto Lime and Violet's Daily Chum!

I've been making so many, and they'll soon start leaving, so last week I took some time and made a Flickr gallery. With the exception of two stripey socks, all of these are plain stockinette with no fancy techniques. Imagine what you could do with a little color work or cables. I'll have to try it next year.

I am hard at work on the socks for Dave's mom. I took pictures on Thursday and I was this far along:


By the time I went to bed Friday I'd gotten over half of the second foot done, but I wasn't able to work on them at all over the weekend. I need to get these done tonight so I can mail them off tomorrow, and I think it's perfectly doable.

I love the way the star toe looks, but I don't know if it'll be as comfortable because the purls make a ridge on the inside. Anybody have any experience wearing these socks?

Tiny sweater: with pattern!

This will take you a bit longer than the little sock, but the sweater is rather charming. As always, if you knit this and find any errors or weirdness in the pattern, please tell me!

(updated 12/15, and I'll continue to fix problems as people report them to me, so check back and make sure you've got the best version before casting on!)


CO 24 sts and join to knit in the round. Knit 2 rows in k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 10 rows in st st and set aside.

Sleeves: CO 10 sts and join to knit in the round. Knit 1 row in k1, p1 ribbing. Knit 14 rows in st st.

Now, since I knit my sweaters on 2 circs I think of the front and back of the sweater as separate entities. Each round starts on one "shoulder" and the midway point is opposite that on the other shoulder.

Choose a sleeve to start with, and knit the first four stitches. Knit the next stitch together with a body stitch. Knit 10 body stitches, knit the last body stitch together tbl with the first stitch of the other sleeve, knit the remaining 4 sleeve stitches. Repeat for the other side of the sweater: k4, k2tog, k10, k2tog tbl, k4.

The yoke decreases will work like this: every row will contain four decreases, one at each side of each armpit. On even rows, the decreases will “eat” body stitches, and on odd rows, the decreases will eat sleeve stitches. Still with me?
Yoke row 2: knit 4 sleeve sts, ssk, knit 8 body stitches, k2tog, knit 4 sleeve sts, repeat for other side
Yoke row 3: knit 3 sleeve sts, k2tog, knit 8 body stitches, ssk, knit 3 sleeve sts, repeat for other side
Yoke row 4: knit 3 sleeve sts, ssk, knit 6 body stitches, k2tog, knit 3 sleeve sts, repeat for other side

(you may want to pause here to sew up the underarms before the neck hole gets too small)

Yoke row 5: knit 2 sleeve sts, k2tog, knit 6 body stitches, ssk, knit 2 sleeve sts, repeat for other side
Yoke row 6: knit 2 sleeve sts, ssk, knit 4 body stitches, k2tog, knit 2 sleeve sts, repeat for other side
Yoke row 7: knit 1 sleeve st, k2tog, knit 4 body stitches, ssk, knit 1 sleeve st, repeat for other side

Collar: 1x1 rib for 1 row, BO in patt. Weave in all ends.

I'm making these from sock yarn on US 1s, and as you can see the latest one has about a 4" wingspan.



In order to get stuff all lined up on Ravelry they want me to give them my real last name. But it's a secret! What to do?